There have been a lot of “Varsitys” in Aggieville – a drug store, a theater, and even dances used this collegiate term in their names. So when Diane Meredith and David Sauter of Dusty Bookshelf, Thread, and Acme Gift, Kevin Peirce of Bluestem Bistro, and their friends and co-workers Jeremy Corn, Tanner Pieschl, and Leah Hyman set out to open a donut shop, they decided to name it Varsity because it captures the university spirit of Manhattan and is an homage to historic Aggieville businesses. The Varsity Donuts location was originally home to The Palace Drugstore, which operated at a time when drugstores were more than just pharmacies – they were soda fountains and a spot for community gatherings. Varsity's goal is to retain what Ms. Meredith describes as a “community clubhouse” vibe while making it applicable to the needs of current citizens. The Palace Drugstore was constructed in 1929 by brothers Harold and Forest Forester. The hand laid mosaic floor and original marble and woodwork still exist in the donut shop today. That includes the booths, complete with eighty years worth of gum stuck under the seats – we told you Varsity was aiming for that authentic soda shop experience! The interior highlights the faux balconies high on the walls as well, which were inspired by one of the Forester wives' love of Broadway and theater. The owners also uncovered the arched window over the door, saving it from the obscurity of three to four layers of plywood and drywall. It's the crowning glory of the front windows and very different from the other glass in Aggieville. At night, most of the businesses' windows seem to reflect the pavement and become just another wall, but the illumination from within Varsity is inviting and the lighted bicycle wheels are intriguing.
The idea for bicycle rentals grew right along side the notion of donuts. In the pitching stage of the Varsity endeavor, partner Jeremy Corn suggested donuts and bikes. Inspired by his own collection of vintage bicycles and the group's general enthusiasm for biking, a rental business was born. Customers can rent both single and tandem bikes, each with their own vintage nameplate, as well as helmets at the shop. Rates for single bikes are $6.50/hour or $25 for the day. Tandems go for $8/hour or $30 for the day. The owners feel the bikes also promote the ideal of everything in moderation since you can come in for sweet treat and then pedal it off on a self-propelled tour of town. Of course if the great outdoors isn't your thing, there is still plenty to do in the shop. Obviously there's the donuts, like the PB&J. I like jelly donuts, but many of them get too sweet. Varsity's PB&J donut is a thicker, almost roll style, donut that's in perfect proportion with the peanut butter and raspberry jelly. Varsity provides coloring books for children as well as board games and reading material for customers of all ages. Varsity invites people to bring their own entertainment as well, such as homework or knitting, to work on while they enjoy a donut or a cup of joe. The long table is also free for groups to use for anything from coffee clubs to business meetings. If your gathering would like to guarantee their favorite selections, give Varsity at least two days notice and they will put together a custom donut platter. You can even host your next birthday party at the shop! Several of the Varsity owners have children, so when they set out to open shop, not only did they want a community clubhouse, but they wanted it to be family friendly. The donuts are even named in honor of owners Diane Meredith and Jeremy Corn's kin. The Opal, a buttermilk cake donut, is named for Mr. Corn's grandmother and the Otis, a yeast donut, is named for Ms. Meredith's father. Varsity now offers the option of birthday parties where you can decorate your own Otis and Opal donuts. For $6/child (or young-at-heart adult), groups can come in to create their own delicious masterpiece with frosting, sprinkles, and toppings. Be sure to book at least two weeks in advance because dates are filling up fast.
Varsity Donuts is a soda shop for the 21st century. From the building to the food to the customers it's a multi-generational experience. Stepping through the door is like stepping into history, but with all the conveniences of the modern world – they'll even ring up your order on an iPad. There is no other place in town with quite the same charm; it's grandma's kitchen for the whole Manhattan family. Can't make it down today? Don't worry, they deliver, but you'll definitely want to drop in soon. In the tradition of Swaney's, the late, great Manhattan legend, the shop also offers their sweet treats after hours. Behind Varsity is a patio with the food truck where the donuts are produced each evening. After all, there's nothing like an Otis or an Opal to cure your midnight ails... or ales.
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